The Pocket plein cuir honours the leather-making and watchmaking expertise cultivated by the Maison. Finely crafted in the Hermès workshops, this new pocket watch is comfortably nestled inside a colourful alligator jacket
The Pocket plein cuir watch by Hermès stems from the mystery of leather and watchmaking skills. At once classic and contemporary, it features a surprising fastening system and an equally unusual leather sheath. This horological object harmoniously associates the science of time measurement with the art of travel and leather craftsmanship.
Two saddle-making techniques are combined in this timepiece: through-seam stitching and so- “full-grain leather”. The latter consist of superimposing several layers of leather to create a six- millimetre thickness smoothly encasing the watch. The artisan begins with the short leather ribbon from to hang the pocket watch, which is shaped to form a loop. He then adds another sturdier layer of cowhide on either side, and each is then covered with a finely-cut piece of smooth, dyed alligator giving the final appearance to its two faces.
Production continues in the sewing atelier with the indenting operation, during which the artisan makes a crease in the leather to indicate the position of each punch hole for the stitching. He does this using a forklike tool fitted with a row of teeth. He hammers the leather while moving the tool along a circle exactly 2.5 mm from the edge. This impeccable tracing operation calls for extreme regularity and precision. Then comes the sewing phase as such.